Introducing: The dark navy Donegal
For our new iteration of the Donegal coat, I wanted to create a version that was the easiest possible colour, weight and pattern to wear. Readers ask so much about versatility - about having one good coat - so I knew making something that could be smart and casual, office and weekend, would be welcome.
The colour, therefore is dark navy; actually a combination of navy and black in the herringbone. There’s a reason navy is the menswear staple, and in the images here I’ve tried to show how that works with both smarter clothing and jeans.
The pattern is herringbone because it creates visual interest (also helps with the versatility) without being a bigger pattern. And the yarn is a slightly lighter merino than the previous Donegals - 680g rather than 720g. This makes it a touch smoother (easier with suits) and a very versatile weight.
Given how popular the article was on jackets that substitute for coats, I know a lot of people are looking for a lighter-weight option, particularly as the world in general warms up. At 24oz, this is a solid mid-weight for a coat.
Here’s a link to buying the coat by the way - I know people say we don’t always include that high enough.
The style of our Donegal - the most popular and probably influential thing we’ve done - is also of course what makes it versatile. The simple fly front and collar mean it doesn’t look dressy with jeans, even in this dark navy.
The outfits hopefully illustrate these points. The coat looks good with my very battered blue jeans above (vintage LVC ones that someone has clearly worn from raw), and would do with a simple white or grey T-shirt as well.
But it’s also effective with a ‘casual chic’ look of dark-brown chinos and a black knit. Those are my Rubato chinos, a Rubato lambswool sweater and black Shanklin boots from Edward Green in the shots below.
I know this is as smart as many people dress these days, so I wanted to include it as an option. I also don’t think readers will have any problem imagining it with a navy or grey suit and tie.
As I’ve commented in the past, a good indicator of the versatility men’s outerwear is whether it can be worn with black and brown shoes. Those two are a decent read on the rest of the outfit, and this coat could equally be worn with dark-brown chukkas, even though both pairs shown are black.
Something else I think it’s worth mentioning is that this dark-navy Donegal would compliment the other colours of outerwear we’ve done in the past - other than the flecked navy Donegal or Bridge Coat.
Readers often ask about that, given our outerwear made by the wonderful Private White VC has been going for seven years, and many already have one piece from the collection - whether it’s the brown, grey or charcoal Donegal, the English Tweed, a Trench Coat or the Wax Walker.
Most don’t want coats that overlap in colour or formality, and the new dark-navy I think would compliment all those non-navy pieces. It’s certainly an easier combination than those readers last year who questioned whether they should get both the English Tweed and Donegal in mid-grey.
We shot the coat in Oxford, both in my college (Trinity) and the city as a whole. It was nice to go back, and it wasn't too hot fortunately, despite it being August.
This of course is also a question that always comes up - what temperatures could you wear this coat in?
It's a hard one to answer because people vary so much - I feel the cold more than most but don't overheat that easily for example. But in general I find this weight of coat is fine in the UK until the real depths of winter, so around freezing.
I just layer up - a thick knit underneath, a T-shirt or undershirt, wool socks and boots, a big scarf and a cashmere watch cap.
And right now in London, with temperatures around 12 degrees and some light rain, I wear the Donegal over a light knit or even just a shirt. Perhaps a knit in the bag or over the shoulders - much like the Rider's Raincoat discussed a couple of weeks ago.
I'm wearing a Medium size in the coat here, and will have it lengthened by a couple of inches at some point (there's good inlay for alterations - unlike most coats). I could wear a Large, but it would be much drapier, a little too big for just a T-shirt or shirt on its own. More sizing info below.
The clothes shown are:
- Navy and black Rubato lambswool crewnecks
- Vintage Levi's LVC jeans
- Rubato brown officer's chinos
- Shanklin boots from Edward Green in Utah leather
- Piccadilly loafers from Edward Green in calf leather
- Hermes 90x90 silk scarf
- Vintage Ralph Lauren cap
- Vintage Lock & Co suede cap
Ordering:
- The coats are available at William Crabtree in London for the next couple of weeks, to try on if you would like to. Purchases are then made online. They will also be at our London and New York pop-up shops.
- At the moment it is exclusively available through Permanent Style, on the webshop here. Private White VC will also have the same coat on sale from a week today. Of course, we always appreciate it if readers buy direct from us.
- There are sizes from XS (chest 46, size 2) up to XXL.
- Have a close look at the measurements below if you're unsure of sizing, and if in doubt compare them to a coat you already own.
- The fit is pretty standard, however, so taking your normal size is usually safe.
- I am six-foot tall and usually wear a size 50-chest jacket. I am wearing a Medium (4).
- As with all PS products, there are free returns should you want to change sizes. Ships from the UK.
Alterations
- The coat deliberately has more inlay than other RTW coats, increasing the possibilities for alteration.
- Length can easily be shortened - up to 10cm without interrupting much of the balance. It can also be lengthened slightly, by up to 5cm.
- The sleeves can be lengthened by around 4cm if required.
- And they can be shortened. Shortening by 1.5cm would be easy - more than that would require the wrist strap to be moved.
- The sleeve width can be increased from bicep to cuff up to 2.5cm.
- The body - chest, waist, and hem width - can be increased by up to 4cm in circumference.
Measurements:
| X-Small/2 | Small/3 | Medium/4 | Large/5 | X-Large/6 | XX-Large/7 | |
| Chest | 50.5cm | 53 | 56.5 | 60 | 63.5 | 67 |
| Waist | 52 | 54.5 | 58 | 61.5 | 65 | 68.5 |
| Bottom hem | 58.5 | 61 | 64.5 | 68 | 71.5 | 75 |
| Length | 108.4 | 109 | 110 | 111 | 112 | 113 |
| Sleeve | 81 | 82 | 83 | 84 | 85 | 86 |
| Cuff (width) | 13.8 | 14.1 | 14.5 | 14.9 | 15.3 | 15.7 |
DMTBeautySpot
via https://dmtbeautyspot.com
Simon Crompton, DMT.NEWS, DMT BeautySpot,
