PARIS — Alessandro Michele invited us into a “Pavillon des Folies” for his runway debut at Valentino. In the censorious quarters of social media where the rush to judgment knows no speed limit, “folies” will undoubtedly stand for a madness they’ll view as unmitigated Michele redux, the G word prominent in their critiques. And maybe, by mentioning follies, he was perversely courting that reaction. Surely Michele could only toy with such a response from the supremely confident position of knowing that he had achieved something magnificent. Of course, that’s not for him to say, so I’ll say it on his behalf.

His Valentino debut could never match the seismic impact of his first collection for Gucci, because that brand of give-people-what-they-didn’t-know-they-wanted lightning only strikes once. Instead, we were gifted here with a collection that was phrased in Michele’s now-familiar lexicon but re-delivered with such luxurious lightness, effortlessness, exquisite technique and flat-out beauty that it still had the potency of something much missed. I mean, he’s been gone for how long? Clearly, that interregnum of “quiet luxury” was all we needed to remind us that excitement is a critical ingredient in fashion’s mix. It created what Jacopo Venturini, the CEO responsible for bringing Michele to Valentino, described as “the urgent need to return to creating desires and emotions.” And Ale has already proved himself a master at that.

On Sunday afternoon, when guests walked into a cavernous space filled with huge pieces of furniture, art and sculpture — all of it, walls included, draped to ghostly effect in gauzy fabric which blurred the sharp edges — it felt like we were entering a pavilion not of follies but of dreams, with a floor of shattered mirrors to compound the effect. The backdrop was the contents of a life that had been warehoused while its central players were elsewhere, which kind of reflected the feelings Michele expressed to me about moving into Valentino’s “house” when he assumed the role of creative director in April. He claimed he felt his presence everywhere when he was working, never more so than in the brand’s fabulous archives. And all those details he’d absorbed spilled out onto the catwalk in an unabashed torrent of ruffles, bows, brocades, glittering embroidery, gilded lace, polka dots, hats, facial jewellery and a spirit of bohemian excess that tapped into Michele’s own appetites, especially in the orgy of desirable accessories, fringed, embroidered, and even logo-ed with the “V” that is simultaneously one of the most recognisable and least offensive logos in the canon of fashion logograph.

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again… Michele’s stint at Gucci was influenced by his reverence for Valentino, so Sunday’s presentation was actually a relationship finally consummated. And it confirmed his own distinct voice. We can stop talking about anyone else, and settle on this as the new world he has defined for himself. As with all his presentations in the past, there was an arcane manifesto penned in collaboration with his professorial partner Giovanni Attili. Once again, their words offered a free-associative stream that illuminated a creative process unlike anything else in fashion:  “…the magnificence of a finely embroidered dress, the long lingering of soul over flesh, the majesty of the void, the pursuit of fireflies seeking love, the scent of wet soil, the touch of organza ruffles, the miracle of libraries, the delicate layers of a watercolour.” Who needs a “review” after that?

Valentino Spring/Summer 2025

On Saturday, a group of the world’s most influential figures in fashion and popular culture gathered at the Shangri-La Hotel in Paris to celebrate The BoF 500, the definitive index of the people shaping the global fashion industry.

Since 2013, BoF has gathered together a global community of fashion’s most influential people — based on their leadership, creativity, innovation and impact — across eight categories: Designers, Executives, Media, Retailers, Entrepreneurs, Creative Class, Models & Muses and Catalysts.

This year, attendees at the BoF 500 Gala were a global mix hailing from more than 35 countries. They came from as far away as Japan, India, Brazil and Australia; from Rwanda, Nigeria and Kenya; from Mexico and Colombia and from the UAE, Egypt and Kuwait.

Among them were BoF 500 cover stars Zac Posen and Francesca Bellettini; designers Phoebe Philo, Victoria Beckham, Glenn Martens, Seán McGirr and Willy Chavarria; global music superstars Wizkid, J Balvin, Damiano David, Yseult and Belinda; actors Greta Lee, Ayo Edebiri, Bright Vachirawit Chivaaree, Davika Hoorne and Colman Domingo and top models Nora Attal, Kit Butler, Amelia Gray, Angelina Kendall and Mathieu Simoneau.

Scroll down below to see who else joined them.

When Nike ousted chief executive John Donahoe earlier this month, there were reports of cheers and popped bottles of Prosecco at the company’s Beaverton headquarters. Those employees were celebrating the replacement of Donahoe with Nike veteran Elliott Hill, who is seen as a better cultural fit, having held numerous roles at the company over 30 years.

A more immediate reason to celebrate: Nike now get a free pass on what are likely to be another bleak set of earnings on Tuesday. Analysts are anticipating a 10 percent drop in sales from the same period last year, reflecting the continued struggle to find a substitute for flagging sales of retro styles.

Hill won’t have much of a honeymoon before investors and those Prosecco-guzzling employees start expecting results. Nike could use this week’s earnings to buy him some time. In a note, Bernstein analysts predicted the company would lower forecasts for sales and profits in the second half of its fiscal year when it reports results this week. That way, Hill can soak in the accolades when he beats sub-basement-level expectations later this year.

We’re unlikely to get a true sense of what the Hill era looks like on Tuesday; he won’t even technically return to the company for another two weeks. Nike’s investor day in mid-November is a more likely venue for a grand strategy to emerge. Some Nike watchers are predicting the company will again stall for time, but it would be a missed opportunity to lay out a new vision, even if the details are scant.

Turning back to this week, the key question is how bad things are going to get, and how much of the blame falls on Donahoe, as opposed to thornier structural issues that even a talented insider may struggle to resolve.

Meanwhile, in Paris

Paris Fashion Week continues, with Alessandro Michele’s debut at Valentino on Sunday (read Tim Blanks’ interview with the designer), Balenciaga on Monday and Chanel, Miu Miu and Louis Vuitton closing things out on Tuesday. They’ll all be competing for attention with Levi’s, which has been teasing a collaboration with Beyoncé that’s set to drop on Sept. 30, with the rollout including an event in Paris.

The Week Ahead wants to hear from you! Send tips, suggestions, complaints and compliments to brian.baskin@businessoffashion.com.

PARIS — Over 500 people filled the venue at Paris’ Shangri-La hotel from the moment the doors opened in the early evening, but it was Wizkid who truly got the party started with his intimate rendition of two of his biggest hits, “Ojuelegba” and “Essence”.

The Nigerian star, who has helped propel the Afrobeats genre to the global stage, carried the vibes directly over to the after-party, opening up the dance floor with his friends including American singer Brent Faiyaz, along with BoF founder and chief executive Imran Amed.

They were quickly joined by throngs of guests filtering in from the main stage area and the outdoor terrace which overlooked the glittering Eiffel Tower.

Dancing to the booming soundtrack of DJ Aymen, a long queue formed as people waited to make use of the photo booth provided by Chase Sapphire. The booth was especially a hit with the newest class of BoF 500 members. Loewe ambassadors Ayo Edeberi and Greta Lee squeezed in for a snap, as did New York-based PR Gia Kuan and Chinese publicist Bohan Qiu.

Many attendees also made the most of the Neft Vodka shot trolley which was circulating the afterparty, fuelling the event until its early morning close. The night played host to wholesome moments between colleagues, industry peers and friends, old and new.

“It’s always an honour being here, seeing all your peers and people that you admire,” said fashion commentator and BoF 500 member Bryan Yambao, known as Bryanboy, who wore a floral Balenciaga dress. “It’s more than a high school reunion type thing… it’s a fashion family reunion.”

The BoF 500 2024 is made possible by our partners Chase Sapphire Reserve, NEFT, Shop With Google, The Shangri-La Hotel and La Mode en Images.

PARIS — Paris is still abuzz in the afterglow of this summer’s Olympics. Just as the Games was a standard bearer for unity and representation, so too was another event that happened in Paris Saturday night: The BoF 500 Gala brought together designers, business people, image makers and content creators from across the industry.

Fashion insiders filed into the opulent venue overlooking the Eiffel Tower throughout the crisp autumn evening to celebrate 100 new additions to the BoF 500 — the definitive index of the people shaping the global fashion industry.

Among the guests on the red carpet were designers Victoria Beckham and Phoebe Philo, reggaeton artist J Balvin and Gap’s new creative director Zac Posen, one of this year’s BoF 500 cover stars. It was clear for all to see, everyone came dressed to impress.

“There’s a lot of strong, bold fashion statements here tonight, it’s nice to see,” said Victoria Beckham.

Hari Nef, Jared Leto and Colman Domingo mounted the building’s marble stairs wearing completely new looks from his hotly anticipated revamp of Valentino under Alessandro Michele. Loewe ambassadors Greta Lee and Ayo Edebiri wore looks fresh off the runway from Jonathan Anderson’s Friday show. French Yseult wore a sculptural couture trench by Balenciaga.

The ballroom echoed with chatter throughout the night, as attendees mingled with friends and colleagues (former and current) and broke bread around a long feasting table adorned with fresh fruit.

As evening turned to night, BoF founder and chief executive Imran Amed took to the stage.

“A moment when we’re all united is so important when the world feels so divided,” Amed said, addressing the room.

He then introduced the evening’s performer, singer Wizkid, who has spotlighted the Afrobeats genre on a global stage. The Nigerian star — dressed in Chanel — performed his signature tracks “Ojuelegba” and “Essence,” which was the first ever Nigerian song to chart on the Billboard Hot 100.

Around 400 of the 500-plus guests counted among the industry pioneers from previous BoF 500 classes, who spoke of the significance of the gathering.

“Just knowing that you are part of history, that you have done a great service to the fashion industry, and that you’re recognised for it — what an honour,” said American model Ashley Graham.

Over DJ Aymen’s booming party soundtrack, new members expressed their joy — and in some instances, surprise — at their inclusion.

“It’s pretty amazing,” said Italian singer and Diesel ambassador Damiano David. “When I got the news I actually thought: ‘What? Me?’. I was surprised because I’m a singer, I did not expect that.,” said David. He said he was more surprised to be selected for BoF 500 than for his Eurovision win in 2021, as the frontman of his band Måneskin.

Zac Posen, appointed creative director of Gap in February, was similarly happy to receive the call. “I’ve actually never been to this event [before], I’ve never been part of The Business of Fashion… but some things are worth waiting for.”

The BoF 500 2024 is made possible by our partners Chase Sapphire Reserve, NEFT, Shop With Google, The Shangri-La Hotel and La Mode en Images.