August Special, Besnard, Haversack: Autumn highlights 2024
October 25, 2024BruceDayneAugust Special, Besnard, Haversack: Autumn highlights 2024
1. Snow Peak Boa Fleece jacket
£220, Large
If a Permanent Style reader wanted a good fleece - for park wear as much as mountain wear - this Snow Peak one ticks most of the boxes. It’s a nice style, in a good fleece, without any obvious branding and certainly different to that Patagonia everyone is wearing.
I like the design, with the curved mobile pocket on the chest echoed by the large waist pockets, and two stuff pockets on the back. It’s been out of stock for a while, but I’m assured by the store it’s coming back in next week. They fit fairly small, so I’d size up if in doubt.
2. August Special ‘Marraka’ chukka boot
£503, 9.5 US
August Special is an American shoe brand founded by ex-RRL designer Joseph Pollard. We met earlier this year and chatted more in New York during the pop-up. His shoes are an impressive mix of rugged style and elevated make, with a particular focus on comfort. They look better the more they're worn.
We’ll be covering him more on PS, as it’s an interesting product and I’ve now tried a few of the shoes. For the moment though, I’m going to recommend the chukka boot - it’s modelled off an old flying boot, using unlined full-grain suede that’s thick and comfortable, and a foam footbed that makes it more comfortable still. The last shape is also like a moderate version of the modified last, which I know will work well for a lot of people.
£2500
I’ve never had a really practical overnight bag - the kind with sections for a laptop, for a shirt and underwear, with pockets I will actually use because I have foreign cash, sunglasses, a watch cap. The closest thing is my old Filson, but that’s very battered and often not smart enough.
The best example I found was this from Connolly, and I’ve used it for a few months now. I was torn between that and the Sea Bag - the latter has more style but is probably less practical. Both are expensive, but very well made and for a luxe look and make such as this, there are few good options outside the big designer brands.
$446, Large
A friend has one of these sweaters, and I’ve always liked it. Then during the New York pop-up a reader came in wearing one, which reminded me I should mention the company on Permanent Style sometime. Hence the entry.
Granted are a tiny operation in Canada, hand-knitting traditional cardigans to order. They take about 4-5 weeks and the quality is good. The wool isn’t quite the same as some I’ve had (eg from RRL) but they’re more wearable than the really heavy ones I've had from the likes of Canadian Sweater Co. The designs are also quite ‘fun’ but there are patterned ones mixed in there too - like the lovely Links Motif above.
£169, Large
This isn’t really Autumn wear, but I only got one of these to try relatively late in the summer so it’s only now I’ve worn it enough to recommend it. Besnard is a new menswear shop in The Hague (The Netherlands) started by Victor Besnard, whose family included bespoke tailors way back.
They do mostly RTW and some MTM, with the pieces made at a high level and usually oriented around tailoring. This polo is a little shorter than most as a result, but is a well-executed take on the skipper style - the collar sits well under a jacket and the button adds a touch of interest without being too unusual. It would be nice if there were more nice colours - I’d only wear the white, navy and navy/white stripe out of the current selection myself.
6. Atlantic Coastal Supplies beach bag
£105, Large
Atlantic Coastal Supplies is a small company based in Cornwall, England. They make a variety of beach clothing and accessories, and while I can’t comment on the clothes, I really like their beach bags. They’re tough and light, with some nice style in the colours, logo, and a very satisfying G-hook closure.
The Extra Large size is huge - for lugging actual diving gear - but the Large (above) is good for everyday use. The material is nylon canvas with a waterproof backing, and they’re made by a local sailmaker, in her spare time when not making actual sails. A nice piece and useful for lugging family gear around. The colours that are out of stock are apparently coming back in next week.
£2504, 50
The Asymmetric Coat was one of the first things that ever attracted me to Stoffa - it was such a simple design yet so distinctive. For a long time it wasn’t available, but 10 years later they’ve brought it back, and it feels so timely now - like those loose coats so many women wear, but to me better designed, more masculine, and certainly in better materials.
The waist only shows one button, but it doesn’t look unusual. The neck buttons up in parallel and makes the design cohesive. That design has also been updated today with a longer looser fit and a part-raglan sleeve. It’s expensive, like all Stoffa things, but like them you can feel the design work and can’t really get the same thing anywhere else.
8. Haversack melton wool jacket
£395, Small
Haversack doesn't get quite as much attention as other Japanese brands, perhaps because it's not as widely stocked and can be quirky in its designs. But there are some lovely pieces in the collections, they're just as well made, and the prices are often quite reasonable.
The cardigan and sweater Clutch has at the moment are both in really interesting materials, but my favourites are the navy/black outerwear pieces - the duffle coat, the melton jacket and the blouson. The duffle coat is very A-line and the proportions generally of the jackets are big and wide, but someone shorter than me would fit them well. I like the details like the frogging on the blouson (above) and the lighter weight of the melton used throughout - it still has substance but it's not as wooden as some meltons that Japanese brands use.
As they come up big, most people size down. That would be fine on me except for the length.
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Simon Crompton, DMT.NEWS, DMT BeautySpot,
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