Another season of fashion shows kicks off in New York this week, starting with Proenza Schouler on Sept. 4. It comes as the industry finds itself in a transitional moment. Consumers are being choosier about where they spend. Labels that can make a convincing case for driving trends, or must-own pieces, continue to thrive, while those that leaned too heavily on logos or now-dated hero products are being abandoned. This dynamic has been particularly punishing for the tiny, insider-y brands that make up a big chunk of the New York schedule. The latest victim is Interior, which told Vogue last week it was shutting down.

New York has settled into a two-tier dynamic where buzzy local labels are just trying to keep the lights on for another season, and maybe nudge American fashion in new directions, while giants like Coach and Tommy Hilfiger use the week to kick off or amplify global marketing campaigns. Take Ralph Lauren: after presenting a collection at corporate headquarters before a small audience in April, is back to its usual big swings with a show in Bridgehampton on Sept. 5. The setting speaks to the wealthy shoppers who the brand has targeted with its long-term elevation strategy. As the exit from underperforming department stores accelerates, and Ralph Lauren’s international business grows, big marketing moments like this, along with the Olympics and the US Open, become more important.

Increasingly in the mix as well are European brands that want to boost their US profile with one-off shows. This season brings Alaïa, on Sept. 6, Nanushka on Sept. 7, Off-White on Sept. 8, Cos and Toteme on Sept. 10 and Ronald Van Der Kemp on Sept. 11 (plus Armani next month), more than making up for the usual trickle of defections by American brands to Paris and Milan.

As has become the norm since the pandemic, if not earlier, New York Fashion Week is set to be a mix of styles, budgets and audiences. And the lion’s share of the commercial benefit will continue to go to the biggest and best-funded brands, while emerging labels muscle for their own moment in the spotlight.

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