Designer Mara Hoffman is closing her brand after 24 years, marking an abrupt end to one of New York’s most high-profile sustainability focused fashion brands.

“This has been by far one of the hardest and most important decisions I have ever made,” the designer said in an open letter posted on Instagram in which she alluded to the challenges involved in trying to operate with the fashion industry under different, more responsible model.

“We have been fighting for what feels like a long time to make this vision and model work,” Hoffman wrote. “For anyone in this industry, specifically within the sustainability movement, you are aware that it has been far from easy on so many levels.”

The designer has never been afraid of bold moves. In 2014, she totally overhauled her label in a bid to operate in a way that was more environmentally and socially responsible. She started by shifting away from polyester to use organic and recycled materials wherever possible and restructured her supply chain to prioritise fair working conditions. Last year, she received the CFDA’s Award for Environmental Sustainability in recognition of her decade of work in the space.

But as with so many independent designers, industry recognition is not enough to sustain a brand. Mara Hoffman’s Spring 2024 collection will be the label’s last. Hoffman is still deciding what to do next.

“Although I am choosing to redirect my participation, I remain hopeful that there is potential for positive change,” Hoffman said in her post. “Knowing that there are so many incredible people working towards new systems, technology and legislation, we have a chance at this.”

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