A little over a month ago Bangladeshi union leader Babul Hossain was arrested, picked up for charges of vandalism and assault levelled in a police complaint that included more than 1,000 unnamed individuals.

Hossain, his family and other union members have all testified he wasn’t in the area when the alleged incident took place and claim his arrest is politically motivated, according to testimony gathered by labour rights monitoring organisation Worker Rights Consortium last month.

He’s one of more than 100 garment workers and labour advocates jailed in Bangladesh between October and November, according to the WRC, as mass demonstrations over wage levels were met with threats and violence. Many, including Hossain, are still in jail.

The situation in the country is ratcheting up scrutiny on Western brands that have committed to protect freedom of association for workers in their supply chain and say they support higher wages.

They are navigating a tense political landscape in Bangladesh, where the government has cracked down on its opposition ahead of elections expected in January. Thousands of leaders and activists have been arrested, prompting public pressure from the US to ensure the election is free and fair.

Last week, eight members of Congress, including representatives Ilhan Omar and Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez wrote to trade group the American Apparel and Footwear Association calling for US brands to support higher wages and condemn the violent repression of labour advocates.

“The escalating repression that Bangladeshi workers are enduring underscores the urgent need for transformative, systemic reform — a call to action that U.S. corporations must heed,” the letter said.

The AAFA said it and its members have continuously stated their commitment to support wage increases and condemn the recent violence.

Wage protests in the country escalated after an agreement to increase the minimum salary for garment workers by nearly 60 percent announced last month. The new baseline of $113 a month still falls far short of the $210 a month unions say is needed to lift salaries above poverty levels. The overall increase is smaller than it seems once inflation is taken into account.

Four workers were killed and dozens more seriously injured during protests last month. Blanket charges were filed against more that 20,000 workers, some by suppliers to major fashion companies, WRC found.

The Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association said that cases were filed in response to vandalism, violence and looting that took place during the protests and have not targeted employees.

Hossein’s second bail hearing is scheduled for Thursday. His first appeal was denied, according to Taslima Akhter, his union’s president.

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A ‘Climate of Fear’ in Fashion’s Supply Chains

The killing of a union leader in Bangladesh this summer has heightened anxiety over the risks facing labour organisers amid a broader, often violent, crackdown on labour rights.