Reader profile: Sebastian

November 24, 2023BruceDayne

Reader profile: Sebastian

Friday, November 24^th 2023Tags:

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Sebastian has an interesting story - a clothing story with distinct phases. He’s a long-term reader (just over 10 years) and has worn many different styles, many different brands. But he's another PS reader in essence - always a little similar to the last, always a little different.

We’ve met a few times, at pop-ups and in the familiar stores, but it turned out we have some other connections. He grew up in Ecuador, where I spent a happy month travelling. He knew my old employer, Euromoney, through his work too. There were more connections than you’d expect, which is always a nice surprise.

I hope you enjoy his story and his clothes.

Outfit 1

Parka: Buzz Rickson replica of M-51
Jacket: Bespoke, from Solito
Trousers: Bespoke, from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury
Shirt: Turnbull & Asser
Tie: Drake’s
Belt: Rubato
Shoes: Crockett & Jones, Cavendish model
Watch: JLC Reverso

How did you first get into clothing?

Well I was born in Ecuador, but from the age of five we lived in Caracas, Venezuela. This was the seventies and Caracas was a prosperous, cosmopolitan city, with a lot of American influence.

I was into my clothes - or at least I cared what I wore, which I guess not everyone does at that age - and I wore American sportswear, American workwear. Even Western clothes - it all had that American touch. That was my first love.

But then when I was older we moved to England, and I remember my mother shopping for clothes at Marks & Spencer. I cried when I saw the things she bought - it wasn’t the same.

In my teens I went through different subcultures. I was a Casual for a couple of years - Tacchini and all that. Then I was a Mod - probably the first Latin American Mod in England! That was why I wore my parka today, in homage to those years.

Did you keep up that interest in clothing?

Oh no, when I was in my twenties I entered the dark years as far as clothing is concerned. I was a consultant and busy trying to establish a career, having a family. I travelled a lot, put on weight, clothing was very functional.

But then in my mid-forties, when some of the pressure lessened, I rediscovered clothing. I think it was about that time I started reading your site as well. I found the clothes I used to love, but got into new areas too. I think that’s the biggest problem I have now - I like too many styles, find it hard to stick with a few.

Do you have too many clothes?

My wife would certainly say so! One problem is I only started selling things in the past year and a half, mostly on eBay. I’m starting to get better at it though. I managed to sell my old Lee Rider jacket through Bryceland’s recently, though then I bought yours, so that was more of a swap...

Is your wife into clothes?

Not that much. Although I do think if there were more shops like Bryceland’s for women, that are so welcoming, so easy, maybe more would appreciate good clothes. It’s so much nicer to shop when there are a few places you go to, who supply most things, who get to know you too.

I hadn’t thought about that. We’re lucky in that regard, certainly in the area of traditional menswear. I think my wife would love shopping that way as well.

Outfit 2

Jacket: LEJ
Shirt: Brcyeland’s
Trousers: Scott Fraser Collection
Belt: Rubato
Shoes: Crockett & Jones, Cavendish model
Cap: Aimé Leon Dore
Necklace: Red Rabbit necklace with silver pendant from French flea market
Watch: Omega Speedmaster (pre-Moon)

Do you think growing up with an interest in clothing helps you later on? Does it give you an established taste?

It definitely helps - some things are more instinctual, it can be hard learning those if you’ve never been into clothes. But your style also tends to be a bit limited, stuck in that one old way of thinking. That’s why I like the way you rationalise clothing on the site, it makes me look at them in a different way.

Black is a good example. I never wore black when I was younger, or in my career, and always thought it was boring. But when I read your pieces on it, I realised how much was about texture, and how some categories were easier than others.

I guess this outfit is influenced by that - I never would have worn it a few years ago. I appreciate the texture in the seersucker, in the linen trousers. And I naturally break it up, with a belt or something else.

It’s interesting to see you wear it with red as well, as that strong contrast doesn’t work on me - your colouring must help.

Yes, and of course that’s a big part of that background in clothes - you have a better idea of what suits you.

Where are the trousers from?

Those are from Scott Simpson, but I had him taper the bottom of them. I like big trousers but if they’re very wide at the bottom it can drown you. Even if they’re wide it helps if they taper a little.

You could wear that width more easily than me. I guess that’s one more about learning about what looks good on you.

The shoes are from Crockett & Jones?

Yes I have three pairs - the most comfortable loafer for my foot I’ve found. The brown tassels in the first outfit were Crocketts as well.

The belt is from Rubato, although I’ve also gotten into western belts from Silver Ostrich thanks to you. And the jacket is from LEJ - it was a sample and I had to convince Luke to sell it to me. I think it was a shorter length than the usual chores, which works a lot better on my height.

How much are you into watches?

Not that much, or at least not as much as clothes. I have a handful of valuable ones, most of which you can see in these outfits. I’m better at controlling myself when it comes to watches - my biggest weakness is definitely clothes, outerwear particularly.

Outfit 3

Jacket: Aero Leather
Scarf: Mahala
Roll neck: De Bonne Facture
Trousers: As in Outfit 1
Watch: 1967 gold Rolex Day Date

I love the scarf here, where’s that from?

A little shop called Mahala that’s close to us in Crouch End. They do some lovely textiles that they import from places like Afghanistan, Iran. There are kilims from Turkey, handmade pieces from India.

They’ve made me a few pairs of trousers over the years too - they’re not sartorial pieces but they’re nicely done and sometimes I bring in my own fabric. I like a good wide trouser.

I like hunting down things like that as well - I was in Marrakesh recently for work and I love walking the markets, hearing everyone’s pitch, looking at all the textiles. There’s a vibrant, entrepreneurial atmosphere to everything.

I presume the jacket was made to measure for you, is that right?

Yes this was made by Aero Leather - at an event Clutch did a few years ago.

How do you find the experience of made to measure or made to order?

It’s hard, because there’s more risk there than with tailoring, just because you’re not going to have a fitting, it’s all going to be made and then that’s it. So I wouldn’t really do something that was just online, where you had to enter all the information yourself - this was different because the guys were at the trunk show and doing everything themselves.

Where do you have your tailoring made?

I’ve used a few different places over the years, but again I wouldn’t say I’m a big bespoke guy. I have business suits from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, casual jackets from Solito. Oh, and I recently used WW Chan for the first time through Bryceland's, and they were very good. I always tell myself I'll get a simple navy blazer, and then I get distracted by something else. This time I finally did it.

I should also include a shout-out to my fellow countrymen at Hidalgo Brothers on Savile Row - we walked past them earlier. They’re Ecuadorean too, a whole family team. I used to use Pinnas & Needles but they’ve become too popular.

I've never done bespoke shoes, and not sure I ever will. It seems a bit too risky for the money involved.

Any other clothes you've bought recently that you'd recommend to readers?

I recently got some boots from La Botte Gardiane in France. They're basically Carmargue cowboy boots - similar functionality but without all the associations of regular cowboy boots.

They're good value, and you can have them made to order, so they sit at the right height under the knee. You send them your leg measurement. The collar is quite large so you move around a bit if you have smaller ankles, like me. But you get used to that.